Bryston 3B SST versus 4B SST
November 30, 2008
I am considering buying a pair of B&W 804S speakers
with a Bryston amplifier. The speakers are rated at 200W, so I am trying to decide between
the 3B SST (150Wpc) or the 4B SST (300Wpc) amplifiers. I have read that the Bryston power
ratings are conservative, but also that the B&W speakers can be power hungry at times.
Unfortunately, I cannot do side-by-side comparisons of the two setups (small-town
limitations), so I would like to know if you think there is any benefit in spending the
extra money on the more powerful 4B SST, or would the 3B SST be sufficient?
Ryan
I think you are correct that the Bryston power ratings
are conservative. You can check
the power ratings of the 4B SST and see that the actual power output at 1% distortion
into 8 ohms is a very healthy 336W. My advice would be to “buy up” whenever you
can, however. I don’t think you’d ever regret having the extra power that the 4B
SST would provide. However, if budgetary constraints are an issue, I’m also confident
that the 3B SST would drive the B&W 804S speakers without any issue. In terms of
sonics, my guess is that both amplifiers would sound very similar, with the edge perhaps
going to the 4B SST particularly in the bass. That last bit is speculation, of course, but
more power and a larger power supply does sometimes translate into slightly more sonic
drive, especially in the bass where speakers are generally power hungry.
How loud?
November 25, 2008
How loud can I expect a good pair of loudspeakers to play?
I am putting in a system for home theater and have been looking at the specs of speakers,
and most brands don’t list these numbers. The THX spec calls for 105dB. Is that
realistic for most loudspeakers?
Tim Brandon
I would say that 105dB is at the upper end of what most
reasonably priced loudspeakers can produce; that is, if you’re talking about
producing continuous sound-pressure levels. You would definitely run a risk of damage to
the speakers’ drivers, at least in most cases. It is quite another story if you’re
referring to musical peaks. In that case, I’d say it’s reasonable to expect most
speakers to hit 105dB without damage. In the latter instance, the speakers’ voice
coils have an opportunity to cool between peaks, whereas steady-state music at 105dB is a
brutal exercise for speakers that aren’t explicitly designed for such torture. I can
understand the desire to have the headroom in your system to meet the THX spec, but in
everyday listening I don’t think you’ll play your system that loud. 105dB is
pretty raucous!
Axiom or PSB?
November 21, 2008
I'm in the market for new speakers. You guys have reviewed
the PSB Image
T65 and the Axiom
Audio M60 v2. I'm interested in both speakers. Which one do you favor and why?
Don
The speakers you mention are similar in some regards.
They are both medium-to-small four-driver floorstanders from Canadian loudspeaker
companies that have good reputations and have always delivered solid products. So, in that
respect, you probably can’t go wrong with either. The Axiom M60 v2 is currently in
its v2 incarnation, while the Image T65 is a bit older. Given the two choices, without
hearing either one personally, I would likely opt for the newer speaker. Of course, in the
end there is no substitute for listening yourself, and if that is feasible for you, I’d
highly recommend that you do so.
Stripped binding posts
November 17, 2008
I was tightening the posts my AV123 speakers last night and
stripped the nut on one of them. I was so mad at myself. So what can I do now? It won’t
tighten down now and I don’t know what I should do. Have any suggestions?
Pete
I’ve been there and done that, as have most
audiophiles at one time or another. There are a couple of options: One, convert your
speaker cables to banana plugs and use these instead of spades. Most binding posts that
accept spades will also accept banana plugs. This method of attachment will provide a
secure, good-sounding interface between your cables and speakers, and the stripped nut
should have no effect on the integrity of the connection. The second option is to replace
the binding post altogether. You could contact AV123 and I’m sure they could sell you
a replacement. You’d need some decent do-it-yourself skills to accomplish this, but
it would get you back to square one. Good luck.
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